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Paint and weathering on the body is finished.
It's been a long time since I've updated this Blog. I've changed printers in that time, and learnt a lot of stuff.
I'm planning to do a youtube Vlog on the finishing process for Eddie, I think it's better to record it, rather than type about it.
This was completed a while back, but I've not been keeping this blog up to date. I hope to be more regular in 2015
Printed in 7 parts at 60 microns for the head, legs and tail. Body was printed at 80 microns to shave some time off the print.
The parts were glued together using loctite super glue, and the gaps were filled with Aves Epoxy sculpt http://www.avesstudio.com/apoxie/apoxie-sculpt
The entire model was then sprayed with grey Tamiya primer, then sanded back once, and sprayed again.
Finally, the assembled model was given a dirty oil wash. Mixing a small amount of dark brown oil paint with Metho to create a watery stain solution. This is liberally brushed over the entire model, and the excess wiped off with a cloth, leaving the remaining solution in the cavities and details.
Recently, colorfabb introduced a new, bronze infused PLA. I immediately thought this would be a lot like cold casting, which is the process of mixing metal powder with clear resins.
When the print comes off the printer, it's dull, the metallic properties only become obvious once you buff it back, for this, I just use steel wool.
Bronze-fill also patinates like real, foundry cast bronze, so you can use all the chemical patinas you would use traditionally. Sculpt Nouveau have a great range.
I wanted a new project to put the Ultimaker2 through it's paces, and try a few techniques to part the model up for molding and casting resin pieces. There's a number of other reasons why cutting up models into smaller parts is a good idea, such as, prints often fail for one reason or another, so if you're only printing parts at a time, it's not such a huge setback if one fails. Another reason is that the size of your model is not limited to your build envelope.
One particular challenge in using an FDM type printer for a project like this, is how to handle overhangs, and oddly shaped parts that do not have flat bottoms. While supports allow you to print odd shapes, the surfaces where they attach are typically less than desirable, so I'll be using a few tricks and techniques to optimize, and minimize the negative effects of these requirements.
I'll document the process as I go. So far, I've completed a ZBrush sculpt and have cut the model up. At this time I added "keys" to assist in accurately assembling the printed pieces.
I'll be using Colorfabb PLA for this project, which I'm finding to be very easy to print with and results in nice smooth surface finish.
Here's a quick visual description of how the parts are cut up, and how the keys work. Combining the oddly shaped hand with the flat bottomed skull means it's easier to print, and will sit nicely on the model's base.
Robert Vignone from mold3D has made an excellent tutorial explaining keys in more depth, check it out below.